Chisasibi Diary
July 2000
My flight to Ottawa held a positive surprise when I sat with Jim Richardson, Director
Aboriginal Banking BDC. Jim is from Canada's East Coast and he is of Mi'kmaq origin.
We discussed some of the simplicities of our childhoods.
I grew up along Lake Winnipeg in a small fishing/farming community of approximately 80
people so time moved slowly. The town of Beaconia (center of North America Latitude and
Longitude which I discovered at the 100th Birthday Beaconia Celebration that I had just
attended). The population was largely Metis and is located about 3 miles from Scanterbury,
Manitoba or the Brokenhead Reserve.
Jim and I had a lot to talk about. Checking snares set in the bush in the dead of winter,
sitting under a large Spruce Tree in -30C and silence watching and listening to the sounds
of the birds, the odd squirrel scampering from tree to tree, listening to the wind in the
trees, watching a dollop of snow on a spruce bough knowing it will fall with the next gust
of wind and wagering in my own head how many more gusts before the snow drops with a light
thud. I had set snares to catch rabbits for my cats. We laughed about my cats' decadent
lives.
I advised him that I had just discussed the churchs' past role regarding aboriginals with
my Priest about 2 months prior to planning this trip. It had been on my mind for years and
Pope John Paul's apology and the Lenten Season combined seemed to be the catalyst that I
needed. I finally sat down with Father Bill and put forth my thoughts and feelings. The
trip to Chisasibi was nowhere in my agenda and after my discussions with Father Bill the
trip miraculously fell into my lap.
Having grown up in Beaconia I was semi-immersed into the life of the aboriginals and
have a fair understanding or familiarity with their lives, their music, and their issues.
I told Jim that I was really pleased that I had met him and did he have any advice to me
regarding my trip to Chisasibi Mandow Tourism Agency. His response was simply
"listen, just listen".
I met Joe at the Ottawa Airport and what I thought was just an adventure trek began from
there. I have travelled extensively, but not in Canada so Joe showed me some of Ottawa's
highlights, Parliament Buildings etc., quaint city and lovely. Toured a Garden Market and
picked up some fresh berries for Sam and Sherman of the Mandow Agency.
Then drove off to Maniwaki 2 hours N. of Ottawa and quickly realized that Joe's car was
dead. It is an older vehicle and I had real concerns regarding reaching the end of the
road, literally. I made some phone calls and realized that we could get a new rental car
in Ottawa that would get us through the trip. I have been to Yellowknife, NWT and to Flin
Flon, Man. and my grave concerns were that the further North you go the longer the sun
stays up and the hotter it can get. The mosquitoes and black flies love the weather too.
Sooo we needed a reliable car given the distance that we were travelling and also air
conditioning for bug control.
We bandaided Joe's car and returned to Ottawa to pick up the rental vehicle, repacked and
were on our way again. We drove to Matagami that day 800 km., whew a long drive. Ate at
Mike's in Amos - Good sized town, S. of Matagami. Almost all French Speaking, not much
English to accommodate me. I am almost lost but bumbling along. Certainly I am not
starving as I can decipher the menus. Beer for local flavor at Matagami's Bar with Eric
the bartender. Informative young man. Off to bed.
July 12
Awake a 6:00 a.m. and off at 7:30 a.m., went for breakfast locally, then off to Radisson,
then to the end of the James Bay road - Chisasibi. Radisson was cool. Went to the Robert
Bourassa Hydro Elec. Dam. Absolutely mammoth. The vastness of the area is unbelievable.
Went to the top of a lookout tower. Truly amazing country. Have no idea how I will drive
back, this is a long distance. At the moment I can't imagine. Toooo tired. I drove a lot
today.
Just checked in to the Chisasibi Motel. Can't tell if it is an arena or school or what.
The buildings are all pre-fab and everything looks quite the same. Ironically a gigantic
room with double beds . First English television since Manitoba?? Watched a bit of the
Calgary Stampede. The bathroom has corian vanity tops and Moen Faucets, cinder block
walls. It is a very quiet building , the cinder block contributing to same. The building
appears vacant.
Supposedly going on to James Bay tomorrow at 10:00 a.m.
July 13
Awake in Chisasibi and off to meet Sam and Sherman. Sam is the General Mgr of the Mandow
Agency. Pretty relaxed. Looked around the agency.
Amazing removal of the Cree people from Fort George's Island to the present Chisasibi
site. 3000 people and only about 1500 when they made the move ten yrs ago. Huge buildings
at Chisasibi with no real indication as to what they are. Extremely barren sight,
buildings, no trees. The town centre has a fire hydrant in the middle with a circular
drive around it. Reminiscent of a camp, a rather depressing feel to it. Fort George is a
lovely area by comparison. Quite unlike Scanterbury's greenery even though Chisasibi is
located in a boreal forest. The expression of the move from Fort George to Chisasibi feels
like one of white noise. As an outsider I can feel it without the words being spoken.
Off with Sherman and Sam on the Bay. A nine hour experience. Cold, I wore a winter jacket
and was frozen to the bone when we returned. That was a calm day, no wind, no ice floes
and 23C on land. We canoed over cross rapids, eddies, deeked around sand bars and stopped
at several islands. Learned that the coastal islands are territorial
Monkey Island as the story is told - some monkey looking animal was getting into the fish
nets, hence called Monkey Island . Where is this animal today, nobody knows.
Another island covered with goose droppings, obviously you can guess the name of this
island. It was also covered with Arctic Tern eggs and the tern were not happy to have us
there, they scolded and cried above our heads until we left. Apparently once their young
are hatched they would be dive bombing you to protect their families. Of course!
Off to another island to explore the wild flowers, black and green lichen, loads of bushes
for wild strawberries, blueberries, some raspberries. The smells were crisp, clean and
wonderful! The islands are mainly rock faced and exhibit the same barren extreme beauty as
the desert. Sherman and Sam collected birchwood and driftwood, made a fire and set up the
Canada Goose Feast (extremely low fat lean meat) on sticks and cooked it over the fire -
delicious. Some tea to enjoy afterward and then began our trek back.
We found a seal on our way back, or it found us! It teased and played around the sides and
back of the boat for about � hr and we photoed it, then left it behind. The only thing to
be seen in that whole vast body of water besides our canoe. Sherman shoots them with a 22
Rifle. This one was young, only about 20 lbs. He had seen some 10 feet long with heads as
big as the boat motor.
We witnessed an amazingly beautiful sunset (that doesn't mean it gets dark - the glow is
in the sky until midnight).
Back at our dock, pulling in the 24 ft. canoe from the bay. It is a huge canoe for
tourists and to handle the bay when it is not the picture perfect calm day that we had .
We had had discussions regarding bad weather and there have been days when the swells are
so large that the back of the boat is into the water with the front straight up. I can't
imagine in that icy water. Home and straight to bed after a long day.
Jul 14
Met Eric House (Band Council Member) and his wife Irene (taking her Bachelor of Social
Work in Sudbury, Ont). Fun people, we had breakfast together, discussed tourism from the
viewpoint of the Band. Witty - Eric observed after awhile that I looked like that movie
actress uuummm, what's her name? "Jamie Lee Curtis" I replied (I don't see it
but am told that often) He quickly quipped "You are psychic!"
I gave him Ted Longbottom's CD "The River Flows". Ted is Metis and from
Scanterbury and is described as a balladeer and the only person in Canada that has
researched and written his own ballads of his ancestors and their involvement with the fur
trade industry. Apparently he has a European engagement this fall, his music is
successful. I had just visited with his mom Doodley at their home in Scanterbury prior to
my Chisasibi trip. Doodley makes moccasins and I picked up the pair that I had ordered
last year. Hadn't been there in a while. We enjoyed Doodley's "unique, knock you off
of your chair humour. Never a shortage of laughs in that household! Hopefully they enjoy
Ted's music in Chisasibi and that we get a sampling of their local talents.
The Band Council indicated that they would like to have their local talent incorporated
into their own web site. They mentioned several local artists that would be suitable.
They also discussed their previous late night at a Sweat Lodge until 2 am in the morning,
they thoroughly enjoyed it. Darn! Wished I had known about that as I would loved to have
attended if they would have allowed me to.
Off to see Charlie another Band Council Member. Outstanding man. He has reintroduced the
Pow Wow after 80 years and the Elders are pleased and very moved. He has also been
involved in the Sweat Lodge. Also is busy training for Wilderness Survival as part of
tourism, something they can teach others. ("Survivor" has become a highly
successful television program! Why not come and see the real thing?)
Wow! Charlie is a very involved confidant man - thought provoking! I would hope his plans
and dreams come to fruition. There is an excitement in all the changes that are taking
place and hopefully every change is to the benefit of the people of Chisasibi. Everyone is
also very involved in their daily adjustments to change and very co-operative in sharing
their experiences.
Back to see Sam and Sherman, picked up their brochures to drop off at Km 0. They gave us
some souveniers from the Mandow Agency and another dose of Sherman's mad humour. Very
funny man. Sherman is not an Elder - just ask him and he will tell you why he is not an
Elder!
The inquistion was over. And now a drive about. To the end of the road i.e you hit the
water - the last gravel bit. Uh Uh. Stop that car, need a truck!
Damn the Dams! The Eco and Cree Worlds are upside down - but Quebec and the U.S. have
Electricity. How many Generations of Cree, Animal Life and Spirituality does it take to
light a lightbulb? My conclusion - no one is counting!
So my adventure trek to Chisasibi turned into a very living experience and Jim
Richardson's advice could not have been more accurate; "listen, just listen".
Whatever walk of life you come from or are going to it is a story you have never heard
before unless you "just listen".
And I have only heard three days of the story……
For Cultural Tourism Information
Chisasibi Mandow Agency
P.O. Box 720
Chisasibi, Quebec
Canada J0M 1E0
Telephone: (819) 855-3373
Fax: (819) 855-3374
Inquires: e-mail
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